The Rise of the Sandwich

The Rise of the Sandwich

The sandwich has always had a place in world cuisine. From Asia and Africa to Europe, for centuries people in ancient cultures had scooped fillings onto flatbreads of various types. However, it was not until the eighteenth century, when John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich requested that his meat be served between two slices of bread, that the long-held practice of eating a ‘sandwich’ got its name.

Valued for its portability and ease of consumption, the sandwich spread across the world, adapting to culinary traditions.          

In Australia, even within a generation, the sandwich has evolved. Still convenient, portable, and easy to eat, it has transitioned from being just a working man’s lunch to a gourmet food item.

A few decades ago, it was common to buy a salad sandwich at the deli bar of your corner store, where stainless steel containers of lettuce, tomato, cucumber and beetroot sat poised to supply the next order. Tinned beetroot was a given, its vinegary zing of flavour adding a bite of acidity to the completed sandwich. Though economic constraints and pressures from consumers to have fancier food led to the demise of the sandwich bar in the 1980s, the sandwich did not disappear for long.

As a dish, there’s a lot to love about a sandwich. It’s a nutritious meal, with the potential of utilising ingredients from all the food groups. It’s also portable and easy to eat.

A sandwich is only as good as its ingredients, their flavours and textures, freshness and quality, and the balance between them. Yet, within those parameters, the sandwich can take on its own identity, depending on its cultural derivation.

Fortunately for us, the sandwich has enjoyed a multinational rebirth, the roots of its heritage encompassing Italy, France, the United States and Japan, often with an all-Australian twist. From meatball subs to Philly cheese steak rolls, from loaded Reubens with their own dipping sauce to katsu pork encased in pillowy white milk bread, we have access to a wide range of sandwiches. Ditch your soggy lunchbox memories and join us on a journey of some of our best world-inspired sandwiches.

The influence of American deli culture

American deli culture has had a big influence on the revival of the Australian sandwich. Two different cultural sources can be seen in American delis, the first from New York delis owned by Jewish immigrants whose sandwiches introduced us to classics such as beef pastrami on rye, corned beef, and bagel with lox (smoked salmon), and secondly, Italian corner stores and sandwich shops.  The “hero” sandwich (or “sub”) featuring Italian meats, cheeses, and vegetables on a long roll was developed in the late 1800s by Italian immigrants in New York, Philadelphia and New Orleans. Classic Italian sandwiches featured combinations such as salami with provolone and roasted peppers, prosciutto with fresh mozzarella and basil, and mortadella with sopressata and marinated vegetables.

Just as menus across the United States absorbed elements of their cultural milieu, ‘delis’ around the south-east corner of Queensland and Northern Rivers of New South Wales each has its own interpretation of the term ‘delicatessen’ as well as its own version of the ‘sandwich’.

Joe’s Deli in Pacific Fair Broadbeach fuses American and Italian influences together in one menu. Many classic sandwiches from across America are represented, some with a twist. From the Famous Meatball Sub to a Lobster Roll, sandwiches, subs and piadinas take pride of place.

John Draper, owner of Junior’s Deli in Mudgeeraba takes his inspiration from ‘New York deli meets the quintessential Aussie pub’. Each dish is a melting pot of flavours. From Japanese flavours to American melts and cold cuts, John takes Aussie multiculturalism in his stride. The deli is famous for its New York-styled Philly cheese and steak sandwich, and for John’s hands-on approach, making his own pickled eggs, cucumber pickles and sauces, brining and cooking his chicken and meat himself.

Sandwiches from Janus Deli in Molendinar fuse elements from several countries. Their Moo-licious is a classic Reuben, while another of their signatures, the Janus Delight, features Italian meats, mortadella, leg ham, salami and provolone cheese playfully mixed with kiwi yoghurt dressing sandwiched between slabs of Turkish bread.

The menu at the tiny but atmospheric Palomino’s Deli in Tugun hinges on three sub sandwiches, the Egg Roll at breakfast time, followed by the Italian or American sandwiches filled with your choice of meat, plus cheese, pickles and dressing.

Nico. Deli & Shop at Kirra is also a tribute to the Italian sandwich. With six delicious panini sandwiches on their menu, from mortadella to salumi, the main Italian cold cuts are covered, with one vegetarian option, the Caprese. 

Luna’s Deli in Coolangatta honours the owners’ French and Argentinian-Italian roots. From the comforting Croque Monsieur filled with layers of Bangalow ham, gruyère, Dijon, and velvety béchamel to handmade focaccia sandwiches, menu items are filled with the best ingredients, local where possible or imported.

George’s Deli in Kingscliff fuses Filipino flavours from the owners’ heritage with classic American deli traditions. Their menu reflects this fusion of cultures, from their homemade pastrami Reubens to ube-filled doughnuts. Their focaccia, toasties and burgers are all packed with fresh, local ingredients.

Mama G’s Deli, which the Gambaro Group is opening in Coolangatta in June, is intent on “doing the simple things properly”. Its sandwiches will be filled with cured meats and fresh produce from the local area.

Italian style sandwiches

When Aperitivo opened in Currumbin Valley in 2021, the Gold Coast was introduced to real Italian sandwiches, owner Matteo Secci baking sourdough panini, focaccia and pinsa daily. Though the Siccis were to sell Aperitivo two years later, diners had come to appreciate and seek out the artistry of a great Italian sandwich.

For some of the best Italian sandwiches, visit Piada Co in Burleigh Heads. Their combination of prime Italian fillings folded in freshly made-in-house piadina (Italian flatbread) is unbeatable. Think Birria Pulled Ragu, a sandwich of slow cooked beef, provolone and pecorino cheese with caramelised onion dipped in a tasty birria consommé and you get the picture.  The birria can even be ordered gluten free. There are also two dozen extra ingredients that can be added to your sandwich.

World sandwiches

If you want a ‘round the world’ experience under one roof, the crew at Breadwinner Sandwiches in Kingscliff is waiting for you. Their most popular sandwiches are the Caesar Sanga (Italian-Mexican), Banh Mi (French-Vietnamese), Meatball with vodka sauce and pecorino (Italian-American), and Salumi Focaccia (Italian).

Kennedy’s in Tweed Heads also takes an eclectic approach to sandwiches, bringing us toasties, signature sourdoughs (house-made pinsini flatbreads wrapped around Italian fillings), as well as moreish hawkers (filling served on a hawker roti). Our only complication at Kennedy’s is deciding on which ‘sandwich’ to order.

Tarte Bakery and Tarte Beach House both give us a twist on French bistro classics, including toasties, sourdough sandwiches and subs. While the Five-cheese truffle toastie speaks French, both the Korean Philly Cheese Steak and the Miso Chicken Sandwich have travelled a long way from their origins, taking an Asian holiday on the way. 

Japanese sandos made a late entry into Australian culture. Conceived in the 1930s to allow geishas to snack without disturbing their makeup, the sando became a popular food in Japanese convenience stores. Katsu, a panko-crumbed pork cutlet sandwiched between two crustless pieces of pillowy soft shokupan or milk bread, is an adaptation of the French côtelette. Japanese investors who visited the Gold Coast in the 1980s and 1990s founded restaurants, introducing us to their food. Sushi became our first widely accepted Japanese food item, the sando following in its wake.

Using fresh, high-quality ingredients is a foundational principle of Japanese cuisine. This philosophy extends to the Japanese sandwich, where the freshness of the bread, vegetables, and proteins is paramount. Sandos are always made to order from fresh ingredients sourced daily.

From a traditional Tamago (boiled egg) sando to a rich filling of Wagyu Beef, Goya in Broadbeach offers a different range of sandos to Chanoyu in Nerang, where a Pork Katsu or Chicken sando is on offer. You’ll also find many varieties of sando at Bobby Bang’s in Nobby Beach from Wagyu or Panko-crumbed prawns, to their delicious Shokupan French toast topped with whipped cream, strawberries and hojicha caramel. Harajuku Gyoza offers sandos as a special promotion, including a fried fruit sandwich, its soft textures of cream and strawberries contrasting in texture to the crispy fried bread. While Cycho’s Buffalo Wings’ chicken sando is less traditional with its crusts intact, local students may choose to eat one of their hearty sandwiches to bring good luck before exams (as the Japanese believe). 

Toasties are the quintessential winter comfort food. They have evolved from the ubiquitous ‘ham, cheese and tomato’ toasted sandwich available at road stops to luxe dripping multi-cheese fillings sandwiched between doorstops of sourdough. Some of our best toasties are available at MC’s Sandwich House in Burleigh, Janus Deli in Molendinar, Sidepiece Coffee in Varsity, and Milk Money Espresso in Robina, where your sandwich has its own dipping sauce. You can still find a traditional salad sandwich at Mermaid Hot Bread, or less traditional versions amongst the wide-ranging menu at Delightful in Tweed Heads, among the loaded world options at Breadwinner Sandwiches in Kingscliff and at Piknik in Burleigh (known for its plant-based offerings), however it will be a more luxe experience that the ‘grab and go’ sandwiches some of us remember. From truffles to French cheeses, and sauerkraut to Green Goddess dressing one message is clear: ‘We’ve come a long way, baby’ each dish sings. Sandwiches aren’t what they used to be!